To buyers, “wearable” and “commercial” are good things, and with Spring / Summer 2010 Fashion Week complete, the outlook is sunny for retailers excited about spring’s accessible styles.

Oscar de la Renta

Fashion designers have embraced a “retail for the masses” approach by creating lower priced lines that are still high on quality, but easily accessible for a larger audience. In addition, many designers are creating more casual clothing, known in the industry as “contemporary,” with an emphasis on luxury-quality sportswear. These clothes are more comfortable to wear and cheaper to produce than past collections, with less-expensive fabrics and simpler designs. As a result, retailers have been demanding that prices come down and that clothes be more broadly appealing. This is the second season in which many designers have said they’re bringing prices down 20% or more.

Marc Jacobs

Some themes for spring 2010 include more-minimalist designs, as seen in a Marc Jacobs trench coat. Chatting to reporters backstage, Zac Posen seemed as interested in discussing his new, less-expensive fabrics as he was in the styles he had created. “I’ve been using cotton twill,” he said, pointing at several dresses, “to keep price points down.” Posen also said he has added more daywear than ever before. Daytime clothing can sell more units, though it’s often less creative, less glam and less likely to build an artist’s reputation.

In the past, designers had incentives to raise prices. Indeed, the most expensive brands were considered more prestigious. The 3.1 Phillip Lim line was sometimes said to be less haute than higher-priced competitors, despite the excellence of the fabrics and construction. In fact, among luxury clothes, 3.1 Phillip Lim has long been a bargain because of the way the brand has used savvy supply and manufacturing systems to create quality.

In the end, runways really do dictate many trends resulting in styles that are commonly sold in fashion shops and worn all over the streets.  WWD spoke to the buyers from major retail outlets about what we can expect to hit the shelves come spring.

New York Fashion Week

Carolina Herrera

Julie Gilhart of Barneys New York noticed that many designers had their eye on price points, but said: “There is a place for lower price point lines but only if the approach is fresh and new. Lower price does not mean lower quality or less creativity.” She was a fan of Richard Chai’s new Love line.

Ken Downing of Neiman Marcus liked the “newness” of painterly prints and peep-toe boots with dresses, while Colleen Sherin of Saks Fifth Avenue said the collections provided “a healthy dose of fantasy along with accessible fashion.”

Bloomingdales‘ Stephanie Solomon said, “There are really two dresses for spring — one very fitted with texture of cut-outs and another with foldings or ruffles and a not-in-your-face, less overt sexiness.” In addition to Marc Jacobs and Michael Kors, Bloomingdales will be showcasing Prabal Gurung and plans to pick up Kimberly Orvit.

London Fashion Week

Marigay McKee, fashion and beauty director at Harrods: “I particularly liked the couture-esque minidresses at Antonio Berardi and the body-con dresses at Matthew Williamson. I can’t say what our budget is for London, but it’s bigger than last season — double-digit bigger.”

Joseph Boitano, group senior vice president, general merchandise manager of Saks Fifth Avenue: “I loved Christopher Kane’s plaid and party dresses, and Peter Pilotto’s prints, shapes and architectural folds. I think Pringle is moving in a very positive direction. We took on Erdem and Marios Schwab for fall.

Erdem

Natalie Massenet, founder and chairman of Net-a-porter.com: “Luella had a true sense of wit and fun, and her looks work off the runway, too. I liked Peter Pilotto’s day-to-evening looks, Erdem’s impeccable dresses and Jonathan Saunders’ box-pleat skirts. Clements Ribeiro was divine and Burberry’s draped outerwear was beautiful — there were way too many coats to choose from.”

Sarah Lerfel, buyer at Colette: “I liked Erdem — it was so delicate and pretty. Mary Katrantzou’s collection really evolved this season. It is already very well received at Colette because it’s so special and unique. Mark Fast was great, as was Jeremy Scott.”

Milan Fashion Week

Gucci

Gucci

“The Milan collections felt more commercially relevant than in recent seasons: either hot and sexy or light, fluid and romantic,” said Jennifer Wheeler, vice president of designer apparel at Nordstrom. “Overall, the Milan collections reflected an upbeat mood, with designers focusing on what they do best,” said Colleen Sherin, fashion market director at Saks Fifth Avenue. Key trends for the season included transparency and layering; lingerie detailing — particularly lace, straps and bodice, and prints, while miniskirts and dresses, shorts, floaty pants and tailored jackets were among must-have items. In terms of color, palettes swung between black and white and bold, pastel and earthy tones.

Giambattista Valli

Jennifer Wheeler, vice president of designer apparel, Nordstrom: “It was a nice balance between the short, sexy, aggressively feminine collections in bold colors as seen in Versace, Gucci, Pucci and Dolce & Gabbana, and the more fluid, romantic collections that featured softer desert and earth colors, as seen at Jil Sander, Marni and Missoni. Key items will be miniskirts, either tight or with a bubble hem; anything perforated, laser-cut or in mesh; lacing details; novelty shorts; leather and suede in pale neutrals or bright; floral prints; soft silk dressing; anything that sparkles, and desert and earth colors.”

Barbara Atkin, vice president of fashion direction, Holt Renfrew: “We are leaving Milan feeling positive about our buys. We will spend the same amount as in previous seasons, editing to the best with the right balance of the soft and fluid with the tailored and geometric.…We loved Gucci, Versace, Dolce & Gabbana, Prada, Jil Sander and Marni. Our checklist includes languid pants; soft tailored jackets; short, sexy skirts and shorts; essential shirts; feminine dresses, and bodysuits as the foundation to dressing.”
Linda Fargo, senior vice president and fashion director, Bergdorf Goodman: “The Italian designers drew closely on the DNA of their respective brands, consistently executed with the luxury hand and fabrications Italy is known for. For the most part, designers favored more relaxed and airier directions. Key elements we’re taking away from Milan include soft, sculptural volumes; transparencies; ruffling; raw-edge finishing; textural fabrics; prints of all persuasions; the bustier dress; short and shorter hemlines; washed pale palettes; mid- to light-tone grays, and Lucite detailed accessories. Noteworthy collections for us: Bottega Veneta — remarkable and refined with exquisite bag offerings; Prada’s mix of exciting, sliced-off tailoring and nostalgic prints; Gucci’s outstanding techno primitive ultrasport collection; Jil Sander’s ravaged sensual tailoring, and Fendi’s delicate dreams.”

Buyers Laud Leggy and Chic Paris Shows

Alexander McQueen

Most collections marked a clear return to femininity with frills, pleats, flounces, lace and transparency. Rather than bright colors, the emphasis was on soft ice-cream shades, from whites and nudes to khakis. Lightweight leather clothing, wedge shoes, tribal looks, shorts and more relaxed pants were noted among the other emerging trends for the spring-summer season, as well as lingerie details, as shown at Dior.

Erin Mullaney, buying director, Browns, London: “For spring, the houses focused on commercial viability, most likely due to the fact that they were having difficulties in their own stores. There was more diversity and variety in the collections and the clothes, which were more wearable, spoke to a wider audience. Designers worked hard on pricing, too. Balenciaga, Lanvin and Alexander McQueen were very clever, with good entry level-priced pieces, so we ended up buying more. In today’s economy, buyers want to take as little risk as possible but they still want to buy winners. Alaïa, Lanvin, Balenciaga, Hussein Chalayan, Alexander McQueen and Junya Watanabe were among the strongest collections. We are picking up two new collections, too: Haider Ackermann and Blouson Noir by Melanie Ward. In general, we are moving away from buying collections to looking for items. It is very much about the individual pieces, such as a white blouse, mixing brands again to show people how to style their wardrobes. The Web is also very strong. September has been far better than previous months, especially the last few weeks, which have been the best weeks of the entire year. People are shopping again. The mood is definitely lifting.”

Linda Fargo, senior vice president and fashion director, Bergdorf Goodman, New York: “Paris clearly signaled a turning point and a desire for gentler and more stable days ahead. After an embattled year with hardened fashion to match, the lighter mood stimulated our checkbooks. The legacy of French craftsmanship along with unique and luxury materials will justify price-value and longevity. We embraced the dualities of both soft and sharp; tailoring alongside soft sculpting and draping. Utility chic may prove to be the most compelling trend across all categories. More purist, tailored lines are appealing to our sense of order, and imply a timeless life without gimmicks. Celine led the way with this fresh movement. We are motivated by the less aggressive ‘new tribal’ with techno-ethnic prints and fringe. Clear messages were shorts, the trench, the relaxed pant and dresses. Many designers gave us their most thoughtful, balanced and inspired collections yet.”

Hermes

Julie Gilhart, senior vice president and fashion director of Barneys New York: “Business has picked up and Paris made us feel optimistic. We’ll have to work hard in new ways to create business, but at least we will have great product to work with. Designers really tried to work hard on giving us a lot of value at more reasonable prices. Our customer has not stopped buying over-the-top pieces that cost a lot, but it has definitely slowed on more simple pieces that carry high price tags. Slim pants and zippered coats were strong and unique.”

Colleen Sherin, fashion market director, Saks Fifth Avenue: “Paris delivered a strong season, with designers offering choices, from pretty, ultrafeminine pieces in delicate, sheer fabrications, with ruffles, pleats, and lingerie details, to sportier options, with a relaxed, casual ease, often with military influences. Key trends include sporty jackets, from trenchcoats to safari and military styles with shoulder details; soft, relaxed pants; shirts and shirtdresses, and cocktail dresses with draping, asymmetry, and sheer layers. The mini-length continues, as do shorts, which were shown as a fresh idea for evening in Paris. Lightweight and soft glove leather appeared in many of the collections. Mixed prints and ethnic prints are key, and true color was balanced by olive, khaki, nude and black-and-white combinations. Standout collections include Chanel, Vionnet, Balmain, Celine, Lanvin, Valentino, Alexander McQueen and Dries Van Noten.”

Chanel